Fan Upgrade/Cover
On my mission to put a cover over the Fan/Vent in my Class C RV. I want something to keep the rain out if I have the roof fan on & open when it starts raining. I stopped by camping world. The teenager there really did not have much valuable input on the topics of vent covers ;-) I picked up the entry level Maxxair cover for $20. I was ready to install when I decided to do some informal testing on the air flow. There was an appreciable decline in air flow. I would roughly estimate the reduction in airflow to be about 30%. I had previously read this on the forums. But, I did not think I would be able to notice the 30% reduction on medium speed. So, I decided to upgrade to the larger Maxxair 800 model (normally $90 but I found for $66 online). Right after I ordered I received an email from a group member telling me he did not think the 800 was much better than the cheapo version. After some more discussion I ended up changing my strategy and buying a replacement fan housing. This adds a thermostat and a rain sensor that will automatically close and shut off the fan if it rains. I think that will best fit my needs.
Info here:
http://www.fantasticvent.com/products/model_6600_kit/model_6600_kit.html
Good deal at Adohen Supply
http://members.aol.com/fantasticvent/upgrade_kits.htm
They have a $169 model that adds 14 speeds and a remote control but I did not want another remote to keep up with so I went with the #6200. Reportedly easy to install. I will let you know how it goes :-)
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Friday, November 16, 2007
Oil Change 2008 View
Oil Change 2008 View
Rec every 10,000 miles
Dealer may change oil filter and rotate tires for first maintenance.
The new Diesel engine requires 'special' low Ash oil that is more difficult to find
MB 229.51 oil is required
Currently only three Oils that meet Mercedes Requirements
Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40
(The ESP above stands for: Emission System Protection)
Valvoline SYNpower MST 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil.
5W-40 and meets the performance for: MB 229.51 5w-40 part number is: VV966
5W-40 and meets the performance for: MB 229.51 5w-40 part number is: VV966
Sold at NAPA Stores US
Information from Valvoline Site
http://tinyurl.com/6drae6
Elf Solaris LSX 5W-30
Elf Site: http://tinyurl.com/6c2xph
Sold US SprinterFilters.com : http://tinyurl.com/66oydc
(Updated 09/03/2008)
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Cats Eye Tire Pressure monitoring system
For Rear dual tires. Links both valve stems so that they have a common pressure and fill at one spot. Ordered by recommended psi of the tire
Manufacturers Web site
http://www.linkmfg.com/catseye/catseye.html
Dealer
http://www.stengelbros.com/LinkCatEyes.htm
Posters with 2008 Views ordered the 65psi version with 12" steel hoses.
wheels tires
Manufacturers Web site
http://www.linkmfg.com/catseye/catseye.html
Dealer
http://www.stengelbros.com/LinkCatEyes.htm
Posters with 2008 Views ordered the 65psi version with 12" steel hoses.
wheels tires
Turbo Resonator Replacement
For Pre 2008 views prone to leaking turbo resonators.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave,
1. The resonator eliminator from Riordanco doesn't reduce the turbo
noise at all. In fact, since it's made from aluminum, it may
accentuate the sound. My take is that the sound definitely isn't
pleasant, but I'm putting up with it until I hear more about a DC
resonator that won't fail.
2. Haven't even seen a 2008, so I can't comment.
3. The instructions that come with the resonator eliminator are very
complete, so if you can change your own oil, you'll have no trouble
changing the TR. Total time is about ten minutes or less.
Basically, you loosen a hose clamp, pull the hose off of the
resonator, remove two small Torx head bolts with a 1/4" box wrench and
pull the resonator from the turbo. The O-ring from the resonator goes
on the eliminator and then you reverse the removal procedure.
4. I carry my old resonator to reinstall, just in case something
happens that causes me to have to get engine work at a Sprinter
dealer. I don't want to have to argue with a dummy who says my engine
problem (insert any engine problem here) is the result of the
eliminator. I'm not sure if the check engine light will go of, but you
should be able to drive normally after replacing the TR.
Byron
2007 Navion H
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
modifications rv motorhome install installation additions add - ons addons
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Eliminator Aluminum replacement
http://www.riordanco.com/our_products_catalog.htm#sprinterTurboResonator
Plastic Resonator replacement
Part Number - 5137-154AA - Resonator, Turbo
Part Number - 5174-042AC - Air Intake Sensor
Fuel Filter, Sprinter Van
Go to this web site -
https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214295
For first two items put the part number in the window that
says "Search by Factory Part Number" and select Dodge in the drop
down menu.
For the Fuel Filter put "Fuel Filter" in the window that
says "Search by Keyword" and the put in the year (wait for next drop
down menu to populate) then Make (again - wait for menu to populate)
and then Model. It will take you to the correct fuel filter.
I just went through it again and it worked fine. Good luck and I
hope you never have to use the parts.
Tom in NY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installation
http://www.riordanco.com/our_products_catalog.htm#sprinterTurboResonator
Plastic Resonator replacement
Part Number - 5137-154AA - Resonator, Turbo
Part Number - 5174-042AC - Air Intake Sensor
Fuel Filter, Sprinter Van
Go to this web site -
https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214295
For first two items put the part number in the window that
says "Search by Factory Part Number" and select Dodge in the drop
down menu.
For the Fuel Filter put "Fuel Filter" in the window that
says "Search by Keyword" and the put in the year (wait for next drop
down menu to populate) then Make (again - wait for menu to populate)
and then Model. It will take you to the correct fuel filter.
I just went through it again and it worked fine. Good luck and I
hope you never have to use the parts.
Tom in NY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installation
Dave,
1. The resonator eliminator from Riordanco doesn't reduce the turbo
noise at all. In fact, since it's made from aluminum, it may
accentuate the sound. My take is that the sound definitely isn't
pleasant, but I'm putting up with it until I hear more about a DC
resonator that won't fail.
2. Haven't even seen a 2008, so I can't comment.
3. The instructions that come with the resonator eliminator are very
complete, so if you can change your own oil, you'll have no trouble
changing the TR. Total time is about ten minutes or less.
Basically, you loosen a hose clamp, pull the hose off of the
resonator, remove two small Torx head bolts with a 1/4" box wrench and
pull the resonator from the turbo. The O-ring from the resonator goes
on the eliminator and then you reverse the removal procedure.
4. I carry my old resonator to reinstall, just in case something
happens that causes me to have to get engine work at a Sprinter
dealer. I don't want to have to argue with a dummy who says my engine
problem (insert any engine problem here) is the result of the
eliminator. I'm not sure if the check engine light will go of, but you
should be able to drive normally after replacing the TR.
Byron
2007 Navion H
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
modifications rv motorhome install installation additions add - ons addons
Winterizing a Winnebago View 2006 23H (Air)
Using the Air Blow out Method
Posted to View navion yahoo group Oct 2007
Marty,
If you're able to follow these instructions, leaving out blowing the
lines out, you'll fine.
******************************
Using the Air Blow out Method
Posted to View navion yahoo group Oct 2007
Marty,
If you're able to follow these instructions, leaving out blowing the
lines out, you'll fine.
******************************
My thoughts!
I use the blow out method with a max of 40 psi. Have done this for
years on 2 Rialtas' a VIEW and now a NAVION. Guess I'm lucky!
I do this to avoid the terrible anti-freeze odor that stays in the
plumbing in the spring time.
Hear is how I do it. First I open all the faucets, don't forget the
shower (inside and out). Drain the HWT by removing the dran plug and
opening the relief valve. Replace drain plug after putting pipe dope
on threads and close the relief valve. Then turn the by-pass valve on
the HWT to prevent air from going into the tank during the blow-out
process. Now I turn on the water pump and let it run until no water
comes out of faucets. Flush toilet until it's dry. Now I remove the
filter bowl on the water pump and empty the water from it and replace
it. Take off my water filter canister, under the galley sink, and
install the "T" plug. Pour water carefully out of filter, don't turn
it upside down, only need to pour half to 3/4 from it. Cap the filter,
if it doesn't need replacing, put it your home freezer.
Now, I put the blow-out adapter on the city water inlet and connect
compressor and blow out plumbing. Turn all but one cold faucet off,
make sure air is coming out of it. Then I close and open the other
cold water faucets until all I get is air. Repeat this on the hot
water side the same way. Now I flush the toilet until only air is
present. Don't forget the shower(s)! This process should evacute
water in the plumbing so freeze up is avoided. I leave all faucets
open in case there is water remaining it has a place to expand.
Now I return to the water pump and remove the screen bowl and make
sure
no water remains. It is important to ensure you really tighten the
bowl when you re-install it or you'll have leakage in the spring. You
should return the HWT by-pass valve to its normal position at this
time
so as not to foget it. If you don't, you won't be able to fill the HWT
and could damage it if you turn on heater. MUST HAVE WATER IN TANK
before you turn on heater.
Now I put vaseline on the toilet trap door to prevent it from sticking
shut. I also, open the grey water vave to ensure all water is drained
then I only close it half way. Do this on the black water valve also.
In the spring it is easier to push a stuck valve than to pull a stuck
valve. Pour about a cup of ant-freeze into each sink and shower drain.
You're done.
One last thing I contact my Insurance Agent to suspend my laibility
durng the storage months. Also, suspend Sirius radio programing.
Works for us,
Dick 08NH VT
I use the blow out method with a max of 40 psi. Have done this for
years on 2 Rialtas' a VIEW and now a NAVION. Guess I'm lucky!
I do this to avoid the terrible anti-freeze odor that stays in the
plumbing in the spring time.
Hear is how I do it. First I open all the faucets, don't forget the
shower (inside and out). Drain the HWT by removing the dran plug and
opening the relief valve. Replace drain plug after putting pipe dope
on threads and close the relief valve. Then turn the by-pass valve on
the HWT to prevent air from going into the tank during the blow-out
process. Now I turn on the water pump and let it run until no water
comes out of faucets. Flush toilet until it's dry. Now I remove the
filter bowl on the water pump and empty the water from it and replace
it. Take off my water filter canister, under the galley sink, and
install the "T" plug. Pour water carefully out of filter, don't turn
it upside down, only need to pour half to 3/4 from it. Cap the filter,
if it doesn't need replacing, put it your home freezer.
Now, I put the blow-out adapter on the city water inlet and connect
compressor and blow out plumbing. Turn all but one cold faucet off,
make sure air is coming out of it. Then I close and open the other
cold water faucets until all I get is air. Repeat this on the hot
water side the same way. Now I flush the toilet until only air is
present. Don't forget the shower(s)! This process should evacute
water in the plumbing so freeze up is avoided. I leave all faucets
open in case there is water remaining it has a place to expand.
Now I return to the water pump and remove the screen bowl and make
sure
no water remains. It is important to ensure you really tighten the
bowl when you re-install it or you'll have leakage in the spring. You
should return the HWT by-pass valve to its normal position at this
time
so as not to foget it. If you don't, you won't be able to fill the HWT
and could damage it if you turn on heater. MUST HAVE WATER IN TANK
before you turn on heater.
Now I put vaseline on the toilet trap door to prevent it from sticking
shut. I also, open the grey water vave to ensure all water is drained
then I only close it half way. Do this on the black water valve also.
In the spring it is easier to push a stuck valve than to pull a stuck
valve. Pour about a cup of ant-freeze into each sink and shower drain.
You're done.
One last thing I contact my Insurance Agent to suspend my laibility
durng the storage months. Also, suspend Sirius radio programing.
Works for us,
Dick 08NH VT
First Post
I started this blog to archive some of the adventures I have with my new 2008 24J Winnebago View and to archive some of the tips and tricks I learn upon the way. I hope you find some information here useful. Please keep in mind that I am a novice RVer so use any information you find here at your own risk !
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